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Day 20 Terradillos de los Templarios to El Burgo Ranero

Monday 27th May 2013

31.7 km - 7 hrs

 

I left the Los Templarios albergue at 6-40 a.m. and headed for Bercianos del Real Camino where I intended to stay for the night. I reached San Nicolas del Real Camino quite quickly and stopped to have breakfast there, joining Lena in the local cafe. Lena was enjoying "Bolleria Tostadas" which was the first time that I realised that toasted bread was available!

 

Leaving Terradillo de los Templarios early morning

 

 

 

Crossing the Rio Valderaduey

 

The 12th century Ermita de La Virgen del Puente located next to a Roman bridge over the Rio Valderaduey. The Ermita de la Virgen del Puente had originally been a pilgrim hospice and the path into Sahagún is known as the Camino Frances de la Virgen.

 

 

Ermita Virgen del Puente

Ermita Virgen del Puente

 

Entering Sahagun

Iglesia San Lorenzo, the 12th Century brick Mudejar Church undergoing repair

Arco San Benito adjoining Monasterio y Museo de Santa Cruz

Leaving Sahagun via Puente Romano

 

Because I had taken time to stop off in Sahagun to look at churches and other historic monuments, when I left the town I found myself walking alone with not another pilgrim in sight! It was a strange feeling and I was anxious for some time that I was going the wrong way. The path follows the A-231 road and after a short while two routes are possible. One is to continue along the side of the A-231 to Bercianos del Real Camino; the other is to cross this major road, head for Calzada del Coto and then up an old Roman road. I opted for the former, as I could now see walkers ahead. When I reached Bercianos I asked a local person at the beginning of the village where the albergue was;. He informed me that there were two; the new "Santa Clara albergue" and the old albergue. I decided to check out the Santa Clara, but when I got there I found it to be a building site! No way I could stay there. So, feeling rather tired after a long day I headed for the old albergue on the edge of the town. Bercianos is nothing more than a big farming village, and they had been muck spreading. The smell that pervaded the whole area was not pleasant! The old albergue lived up to its name.... an old building.... and did not look very appealing! On top of that I would have an hour and a half to wait for it to open. Reluctant as I was to go any further, I decided to put on fresh socks and to strike out for El Burgo Ranero, another 8 km! By the time I got there it was 1-30 p.m. and I had been walking for 7 hours! I fairly sprinted into the town and over to the municipal albergue as I knew it was small. I was concerned for the first time about getting a bed.

By 2 p.m. the albergue was completely full, with Gary, Jean, Bart and Klaus getting the last beds. I sat and had a beer with Bart who had suffered severely with shin splints and had been forced to take a taxi that day, much to his personal annoyance. However, you have to listen to your body and a taxi ride for one day, or having a firm move your bag from one place to another, can make the difference between recovery and having to abandon the Camino. I am pleased to say that Bart quickly recovered and rejoined the walking group. Good on you Bart! Herbert also joined us for a chat, and commented that he had seen me pass walking quickly in "Sewing Machine mode"!

 

 

El Burgo Ranero

Gary, Juan, Martha and Klaus

Michael, Katie, Bart and Regina

Katie and Mick

Accommodation Notes

 

Municipal Albergue Perigrinos Domenico Laffi

 

 

The eating area down stairs